Methods of Mounting 

This section covers Methods of Mounting your models to our stands, How to Work with Acrylic Plastic (to change the angle of attack to a stand for example), our Warranty, how to Request Custom Stands, and Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs).  Be patient while downloading this page as it contains TONS of useful information.  Thanks and enjoy!

Methods of Mounting

Needless to say (but here I am saying it anyway!) the method of mounting your model to our stands will vary according to several factors:

• Size of the model
• Size and type of stand
• Type of display effect you want to achieve
• Whether or not the model was prepared during construction for mounting on a stand
• Whether or not you want to permanently mount the model to the display (Note: mounting methods are designed to be reversible and non permanent)

Mounting Warnings and Precautions

Don't overload the stand!  It should go without saying (there I go again!) you should never overload a display stand with a too large a model.  In the Display Stands catalog section and the Photo Gallery, I've included a variety of stands/scales to give you an idea of what scales work with which stands. 

Don't mount the model off balance or off the center of gravity for the chosen stand!  Plan your display.  Determine the center of gravity of your model.  Decide before you start model assembly (when possible) how you want to attach the model to the stand.  

Don't just glue the model to the stand!  Aircraft models must be securely attached to their stands.  

Methods of Mounting Models to Stands: Aircraft

Method 1: Up The Tail Pipe

Styles A, C, G and K were designed so that the rods will go up the tail pipes of jet aircraft.  You can purchase a stand with two rods for aircraft such as the F-14, F-15, F-18, Mig 25, Mig 29, etc.  I use 1/4 and 3/8 inch diameter rods with most of my stands.  You can upsize the diameter of the rod to fit the exhausts of jet fighters by wrapping electrical tape around the rod till the exhaust pipe fits snuggly.  See Figure 1. 

Ideally, the mounting rod extends at least 1/2 way up the aircraft.  This ensures proper balance and a secure mount.

Method 2: Pin In the Belly

Styles D, E and F were designed to use a metal pin or rod set into the top of the stand.  This thin metal shaft goes into a small hole in the belly of the aircraft.  I use 1/16 inch diameter soft brass rod or 12/14 gage solid copper wire to connect the stand to the model.  Taper the 'aircraft' end of the rod slightly.  Glue the 'stand' side of the rod to the stand using super glue.  Let the glue dry.  Drill a hole ever so slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod in the bottom of the aircraft at the desired mounting point.  Pressure fit, with slight twisting as necessary, the model onto the mounting rod.  To remove the model from the stand, carefully twist the model off the mounting rod.  

Method 3: Slot in the Belly

This method works like the old stands which used to come with the model airplanes of the 50's and 60's, and works best with Style A stands.   Here's the steps:  

1. First, cut a piece of plastic shaped like the drawing (fat 'C' shape) in Figure 3.  Dimensions are approximate, but don't go too small.  I recommend it be at least 3/32 inch thick or thicker.  
2. Next, cut a slot in the stand to accept the plastic 'C'  piece you just cut.  See Figure 4. 
3. Now, cut a slot in the appropriate mounting point in the belly of the model.  The slot should be just wide enough to accept the plastic piece you cut in the first step.  Note: When using Style A stands, move the mounting point forward just a smidge, so the model will be JUST SLIGHTLY TAIL HEAVY.  
4. Glue the plastic piece in the slot you cut in Step 2 with plastic glue.  Let dry.  
5. Mount the model by lowering the nose of the model till the plastic 'C' piece fits in the slot.  Then slowly raise the nose till the model rests on the curved rod. The model should stop and rest securely on the rod, hooked by the 'C' piece.  Figure 6 below shows the lower half of the fuselage with the 'C' piece through the slot, resting on the support rod.

Method 4: Screw in the Belly

Used with Style A stands.  This method required advance preparation when you assemble the model.  

1. Determine mounting point.  Before assembly, put the two fuselage halves together, and drill a hole which will be bigger in diameter than the mounting screw you will use.
2. Just before you are ready to glue the fuselage halves together, prepare two part epoxy putty (I like Milliput).  Place a large ball/glob of putty over the hole location you drilled in step 1.  (Alternatively,  you can  epoxy a nut of the same thread spec as your mounting screw.  Keep epoxy out of the threads, and use enough epoxy to securely hold the nut in place).  Glue the fuselage halves together.  Let dry.
3. Using the appropriate drill bit and thread tapping tool, drill and tap a hole in the hardened epoxy putty.
4. Drill a hole in the stand.  Be very careful to drill the hole in the roll angle you desire.  The diameter must be larger than the mounting screw.
5. Push the mounting screw through the hole you drilled in step 4.  Place you model's mounting drilled and tapped mounting hole over the screw/stand.  Carefully thread the screw into the mounting hole.  Tighten no more than finger tight.

For larger models, you might desire to add a second screw or a pin as shown in the drawing.  This increases the stability of the model, and prevents it from yawing on the stand.

Method 5: Rod in the Belly

For stand Styles A, and C.  This method is very straight forward, but does require preparation prior to model assembly.  

1. Determine where you want the mounting rod to enter the model.  Be sure to take into account center of gravity and stand balance.  Reinforce that point with two part epoxy putty.  Remember the rod will extend into the model so allow sufficient epoxy putty to support the rod and model combination.  
2. Glue the fuselage halves together.  Let everything dry.
3. Drill a hole at the correct angle and diameter (to match the diameter of the mounting rod) and depth into the fuselage where you have placed the epoxy putty.  A drill press is ideal for this.
4. Gently push the rod into hole you drilled.

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How to Work With Acrylic Plastic

Acrylic plastic is a thermal plastic, which means heat will cause it to melt and bend.  The working temperature of acrylic is approximately 315 degrees Fahrenheit.  For more details on how to work with acrylic, you can order my pamphlet, "Working with Acrylic Plastic."  See the Price List for ordering instructions.

To change the angle of attack to a mounting rod, you may heat the rod with a hair blow dryer set at high.  Heat the curved area of the rod for five or six minutes: plastic absorbs heat slowly. Warning: Plastic becomes hot!  Wear gloves and use necessary precautions when working with heat and electricity.  When you feel the rod begin to be slightly flexible, bend the rod to the desired angle, and hold for two minutes.  You can repeat this process as often as needed till you have the correct angle.

While standard drill bits will work with acrylic, I use special drill bits specially designed for drilling in plastics.  Most hardware stores do not carry them.  Check a plastic distributor in your area for availability.

For cutting slots in mounting rods, I use my X-Acto razor saw.  Start slowly, and work slowly for best results.

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Warranty Information

These stands have been engineered to last the life of your model (longer actually!).  Abuse, mishandling, harsh environments, too much heat, etc, will damage or destroy your stand.  I stand my all my stands and will replace all damaged stands (other than those you cut/drilled in the wrong place!).  We accept no liability for damaged models or any other damage caused directly or indirectly by one of our stands.  No other warranty is expressed or implied or extended.

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Requesting Custom Stands

You may desire to mount your model in a stand which is not listed on this site or in the catalog.  Typical cost of a custom stand is $25.00 (minimum!) plus shipping and handling.  I am happy to work with you to design the perfect display stand for your  model or collectible.  Please feel free to email me at akbreger@earthlink.net . 

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How do I mount a model to your stands?  See 'Methods of Mounting' above.

2.  Are there quantity discounts?  Yes.  I offer 10% off on orders of 10 stands or more, up to 24 stands.  For orders of 25 or more stands, I offer a 15% discount.  You may mix and match stand styles to get the discount.  Custom stands can not be included in the discount. 

3.  I don't see a stand I like.  Do you make custom stands?  Yes.  See Requesting Custom Stands above.

4.  How strong are  your stands?  My stands will easily hold the models they are designed for, plus two hundred percent of the model's weight.  The safety factor is at least 300%. 

5.  What if one of your stands breaks?  I stand behind each of my stands.  If it breaks, I will replace it no questions asked (does not include you drilling, cutting, bending in the wrong place!).  See Warranty.

6.  Can I change the angle of attack of one of your stands?  On the styles with acrylic rod, you may.  See Working With Acrylic Plastics above. On all other stands, the angle of the stand is a design feature and cannot be changed.  I can custom make stands or set the angle for a standard design upon special request.  Refer to Requesting Custom Stands above.

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